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Cuba Journal
National Council of Churches USA Delegation to Cuba
by Rev. Steve Horswill-Johnston, United Methodist Communications, Nashville, TN

Day 3: January 24, 2004

The United States has long been alleged to have oppressed Cuba since the Spanish-American War and intensified after Fidel came into power. Some of the offenses have been documented and admitted by U.S. officials. Alleged CIA activities include terrorist attacks and related acts against this small island nation; ranging from introducing diseases into the sugar plantations, bombs exploding in hotels and over 40 assassination attempts on Fidel Castro. With all these allegations, you would think the citizens of the country would not welcome us.

“I welcome you like my brother,” a native said with a smile through his broken English after hearing I was from the U.S. Certainly our presence helps the largest industry in the nation, tourism, but I do believe his words were genuine.

Our first trip to the first Protestant church in Havana (a Presbyterian Reformed church) included a glimpse at one of the poorer areas of Havana. Unboarding our buses with our clergy shirts, suits and digital cameras we probably caused quite a stir on that cobble-stoned street. Before our meeting started we strolled to discover chicken meat being distributed by the Cuban government, several small shops filled with activity and the constant passing of 1950s-era cars. We also noticed that although the roads are in desperate need of repair and the buildings are crumbling, litter is hard to find and only a little graffiti is seen.

The Presbyterian church looked similar to many churches we worship inside the United States, with slanted roofs and a tall steeple. Built in consultation with U.S. missionaries, the church’s pastor told us that the roof was slanted on each side because “it might snow!” (it never snows in Cuba).

Today’s a waiting game. The NCC hopes to meet with Castro to discuss various issues, including the 75 Cuban dissidents given long prison sentences.  (The delegation never heard from the president’s officials and the meeting did not occur.)

While waiting for word from President Castro's office, we took advantage of our free time in Old Havana -- sightseeing, shopping and enjoying the people. Old Havana is filled with life; dancing and music in the streets with traditional Cuban dress, maracas and other crafts being made and sold -- and plenty of tourists! Cuba is visited mostly by Canadians and Germans, but there are people from all over the world visiting each year.

Along with Robert Edgar, General Secretary of the NCC, and Debbie Hadjes Funti, a long-time Greek Orthodox delegate to the NCC General Assembly, a few of us got an unexpected preview of the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral in Old Havana, the church to be consecrated tomorrow (Jan. 25). Debbie spotted a friend coming out of the doors of the cathedral, Andrew Athens, president of the Greek Orthodox World Council of Hellenes. He waved us past others wanting to enter and we had the whole cathedral to ourselves. This was a special treat, since large crowds are expected tomorrow for the consecration by Patriarch Bartholomew and we probably won't be able to visit it so intimately.

The cathedral is small, but its beauty is stunning. The white smooth mortared walls are filled with Christ icons and paintings adorn the walls and high ceiling.  A large altar was being prepared for the next day. The next day the Altar would be washed and blessed by the Ecumenical Patriarch.

Our evening meal was an open-air dinner held in historic St. Francisco Square in honor of the Ecumenical Patriarch featuring traditional Greek and Cuban music and dancing. The old tall buildings, some over 100 years old, were bathed in special lights as 500 to 1,000 people dined together.

Afterwards, we again boarded our familiar buses and headed back to the hotel. As we traveled, one of the experienced delegation members pointed out a monument to Elian Gonzalez, the boy who was lost at sea and returned to his father with the help of the NCC and the Cuban Council of Churches. Some believe the important act of Elian returning to his father may help to break down political barriers and a lifting of the decades-long embargo.

Tomorrow is the consecration of St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral!